Monday, 22 October 2007
Santai Beach Inn, Mangsit (Santai = Relaaaaax)
Jess and I planned to get the boat back to the mainland Lombok at 850 the next morning so got up at 745 and wandered down to the jetty to check about 8.. turns out it was leaving at 815 so we ran back, packed our stuff and joined the other 40 or so people on the chartered boats. Unfortunately this boat did go to Bangsal, the public port, and as the engine stopped about 200m from the shore for a couple of minutes (only in Indonesia), we were the last boat in and it was a bit of a dodgem-car job to get on shore. Lol. A man on shore grabbed my suitcase before i could even stand up and when he put it down he put his hand out for money. Like I asked. Gave him some and he had the cheek to ask for more! i shooed him away, also in the midst of negotiating a taxi back to Senggigi. Apparently they wanted to charge an excessive amount, set price, and there were so many people talking, it was quite overwhelming, then a guy started telling us about his bus and what a great price we could get... all the time everyone was moving and it was very hectic. We settled on a price, saved about a 6th of it altogether, and headed up the road with everyone else. I felt a bit silly, but the guy wanted us to go to his office and pay then go to the bus, but knowing the reputation of the place, I insisted we see the bus before we pay. It was ok, bit of a rough trip down, very windy, lots of roadworks. But once wed gotten supplies (ie cash) in Senggigi, we got a taxi to Mangsit, the next town up the coast. Or not so much a town but a string of hotels on the waterfront. Ours, Santai Beach Hotel, was divine. Heaven. Wedged between a couple of five-star resorts, it was delightful in its simpleness. Run by lovely relaxed friendly Indos, it was peaceful, a wondeful green garden and quite private bungalows. And butterflies. Sigh. Heaven. It backs onto the beach (well rocks, cos the other hotels built a wall along the shore), but in one direction a small cove beach and in the other, a nice stretch of beach and clear water. And the best bit? The food. We were recommended the place on the merits of its food. And i can see why... Ive turned into such a foodie in this place... We arrived before lunch and all the meals were served in this big pavillion with endless cushions around low tables, at night by the light of lanterns. You could see the water from there, divine. The best Indo food Ive ever had... There wasnt much else around, just the restaurants at other hotels so there wasnt really any need to leave. We spent the afternoon with a swim, reading, getting our nails painted with flowers... it was so quiet and peaceful. There were about 6 other people there for dinner, a group from Bali. A balinese woman, her brothers, and her Danish husband and his sister... As you do. Danes and Balinese. For brekkie we had fruit salad with coconut and honey, and jess left late morning for her flight back to denpasar. I was a little lonely for about an hour, then enjoyed the quiet, read my book, went for a walk, enjoyed my lunch by myself lol. Late afternoon it started thundering, then spitting then poured! For about 3 hours. Nice little storm, notwindy tho, just thunder, lightning and rain. I quite like tropical rain. One of the girls from the kitchen came and escorted me with her umbrella to dinner. Ill admit, I was a little worried about the waterproofness of my palm-roofedbungalow but not a drop got in. Really peaceful listening to the rain. If only it wasnt for that honking lizard...Saturday morning the seas were calm and clear from the storm, I had a nice walk and a lovely breakfast (no doubt), read for a bit and as promised the nail-painting lady returned for a massage. Id said I would, before I realised how low my finances were, so managed to haggle her down a bit for a wondeful hour massage. A nap and more reading filled in my morning before Sarah arrived. Cos it was a week after Idul Fitri, they had another big celebration, the closing of Lebaran festivities, so apparently all the roads along the coast were closed for stalls and fun, and all the staff at the hotel had the day off. The owner came in instead, a brittish woman whod been living there for the last twenty years. And before that... south bruny! lol. She was interesting. Was saying that there are lots of weddings this time of year cos its a big celebration so lots of young couples go out unchaperoned and past curfew so thats that, they have to get married... lol. Also special food, people from the villages spared some for us. The owner, her daughter, another american woman Id met a few days before, Sarah and I had dinner, then Sarahand I shared some pineapple wine... Quite nice. Lombok special.Sad to leave the next morning. If that was on Java, Id be back every weekend... I felt so relaxed and refreshed. Little piece of eden amongst the five-star luxury.
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